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Perfect Size Caber - Best Wood? |
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Rob Schultz
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Joined: 6/18/07 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 449 |
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Topic: Perfect Size Caber - Best Wood?Posted: 10/04/07 at 5:03am |
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What is the Best size caber to compete with??? Pros??? Amateur A I think 19' 120 pounds? Also, What is the best type of wood? cypress? Pine? |
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dWood
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Joined: 8/29/04 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5110 |
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Posted: 10/04/07 at 5:13am |
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pine dries out rather quick..poplars are good...cedar(espicially Maine cedar) are good for few years till they dry out..I guess you could seal them though.....best cabers are without Wayne Hills manufactured cabers..tough..last a long time..almost indestructable
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JUST BRING IT /
SPEED KILLS..BUT STRENGTH PUNISHES |
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C. Smith
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Retired Joined: 8/30/04 Location: Antarctica Status: Offline Points: 6661443 |
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Posted: 10/04/07 at 5:27am |
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It's so dependant on things like where the weight is distributed, etc... but as a general thought for the pros, 20ish, 140+ is nice. Personally, i think a good stick is one that maybe 2 or 3 out of 10 competitors can turn. |
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seckmrl
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Posted: 10/04/07 at 5:29am |
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For AZ we use a range of Cabers
16-17 feet - 70-80 lbs C's 17-19 feet 80-90ishlbs B class 19 21 feet 100+ for A's 20 plus feet and 110 plus for pros and (challenge for A's) Pro Challenge - 22 feet 145 lbs - Yikes it is also fiberglassed to help us keep the AZ sun and dryness from killing it - makes it a tough stick for sure. Women C - 14-16 feet 50 lbs B- 15-17 feet 60-70 A- 17-19 feet 70plus pounds
most of ours are pine from Russ Murphy in Colorado we have tried many things to keep them from breaking and the best we have found is to fibergalss them with 2-3 layers of the product. Brent Abbott is a master at this and could give you some pointers, but the hold up very well to sun, heat and even rain. and they sound solid even when they get an ugly dump. just a basic guidline Edited by seckmrl |
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Mike Wills
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Joined: 12/27/04 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 836 |
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Posted: 10/04/07 at 6:08am |
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A whole lot depends on the taper. I have turned a 19', 165# caber that had a huge taper - i.e. very top heavy - and it wanted to turn if you were strong enough to pick it and give it a decent pull.
On the other hand, something with no taper can be tough at 17' and 110#! With an "average" taper I would think: B Class - 18', 90# A Class - 18', 110# Super A - 18', 130# Pro - 18', 150# Pro Challenge Caber - 18', 165# I think more often than not, the pros go with 19'...I just tried to keep the length the same and think of the different strength/technique levels. |
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JWC III
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Posted: 10/04/07 at 8:52am |
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As an AD that runs 3-4 games a year and has about a dozen guys who regularly practice at my place, going thru cabers is a problem. I got some from Russ Murphy, but I think good ol' Russ may be on the back end of his caber makin' days (I hope not). He used the lodge pole pines of colorado. Jim Deters in the St. Louis area makes his out of Missouri Red Cedar and I have a few of those. I recall turning the Wayne Hill manufactured cabers out east in 2005 and those were pretty cool. I have tried to make my "Poor man's version" (or maybe I should say, "inept man's version") by putting some 2X6X16's together. That makes for an indestructible practice caber at least and save the good one's for meets. Does anybody have some good "blue prints" or descriptions of manufactured cabers? I know that Merl Lawless tried to make one out of an alunimum light post one time (it bent the first day it was used) and Al Myers has talked to me about making one out of steel tubing and weighting one end to give it the "feel" of being tapered. Don't get me wrong, nothing beats wood cabers, they are like wood bats, I just want something for the C class guys (who don't know how to dump a caber) and for practice. |
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Thom Van Vleck
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CLAYMORE
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Joined: 9/16/04 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 242 |
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Posted: 10/04/07 at 10:57am |
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ahhh, thom?? as i recall, the first year i attended your games, you had gone to the timber and cut your cabers that morning!!! and, as i also recall, did you not tell me, following my innocent inquiry as to the weight of these said cabers, with a sideways glance, "WHO CARES??!!"
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fidelitas super alius, decus absque.
#dave glasgow# |
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seckmrl
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Posted: 10/05/07 at 10:52am |
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Thom, we have the same problem with the lesser experienced athletes doing some damage on the sticks. Like I postes we have fiberglassed the cabers and they are rock solid. It costs between 75 and 100 per caber but I know has one going on multiple years and it is over 100 lbs and 19 feet that has seen some terrible dumps. We also have tried all the other methods and had marginal results. The nice thing about it also is you can always rough the coat up and add another coat in a few years to keep it doing its job. We have about 5 cabers that we can run to each AZ games and they are the same so we can see how people progress as tossers
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Silverback
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Posted: 10/05/07 at 12:49pm |
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At a game I want a monster stick, I don't want to shoot out with someone. But for practice I want a long skinny stick, near 21, but only like 90lbs. That way you can have something difficult and work your timing without killing your body with the weight of a giant. I will get strong in the gym, I will work my timing with that long stick.
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Mule
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Coach Mac
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Posted: 10/05/07 at 10:15pm |
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I would train with two types for technique....big end with taper. Then a DEAD stick...no taper for the length that you will compete with Class wize.
We have a Caber device that is tremendous for conditioning. Its on wheels that you can run with...plant and PULL. |
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Have a GREAT Day !
Rob " Coach Mac " Mac Kay |
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wallyworld
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Posted: 10/06/07 at 12:30am |
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Pine (evergreen,) of course, is a soft-wood. lf you can get your hands on a long enuf' length of some other kind of hard wood, its gonna' hold up longer. lf all you have available are pine trees, just plan on replacing your cabers often! lf you're looking at manufactured wood, don't try to do your own. You don't have the capabilities that are available where glue lams are made. Get an 8 x 8 glue lam the length that you desire and carve it down! |
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"TRY NOT. DO OR DO NOT. THERE IS NO 'TRY'." Yoda
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UpChucker
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Joined: 2/24/07 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 130 |
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Posted: 10/06/07 at 2:59pm |
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Myles...we are cutting the A caber for Gulfport games...right now it is 20' cypress stick that weighs about 150... The Master and B cabers are 17-18' and weigh about 65lbs dry...we may stick them in the pond to bring them up a little. |
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Jerome
I am not yet the fruit of the tree |
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Silverback
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Posted: 10/07/07 at 3:37am |
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I wrote to Jason about coming down, but I think he has enough throwers. One of my favorite trophies was from an early game down in Fla and I won the caber and it broke later, Shane cut the end off and carved a number one in it, I still have that and the fond memory. |
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Mule
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Snider
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Posted: 10/07/07 at 4:25am |
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I think I have some of the best caber in Michigan.. As my Pro caber, I will base them on my Pro Field....Alma.. one turned it... C. Smith. Saline highland game competition caber used think only 4 out of 8 turned it and my challenged caber was M. Zolk. Am with Myles on this one... I hate shoot out with a caber.. Would only like to see the top 3 athletes turn it. Cedar, cypress or Colorado ash would be my choices (my cedar caber I will submerge into the river for a few weeks until I get my desired weight) as for the class, I would follow closely to Mike Wills suggestion |
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Skullsplitter
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Posted: 10/07/07 at 2:32pm |
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Having been a caber junkie who loves the big, difficult sticks, my favorite (besides Wayne Hill's composite NASA designed cabers) is tamarack. It is a rare tree (the only deciduous conifer in North America that grows indigenously) and I had to drive way up into Maine to get it, but it is 19' long, and still weighs 135+ lbs 3 years after I cut it. The only person to turn it at the World Championships in 2004 here in NH was Doug MacDonald. It is hard as a rock, very little taper and cleans up to a clean white finish. I realize not many people would have access to this gem but look around. I would guess our friends in the upper Midwest and in Upstate NY would be able to get one and is well worth the trouble. Hard, durable, very little taper, straight as an arrow and looks great. Poplar is another good stick for a year or two but dries out. I am still looking for the straight branch of an old oak that was struck by lightening, but if you could turn that you would be "The Natural". |
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"I am the thread, the pupil, and the eye of the needle is my teacher"
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M-BAAB
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Posted: 10/09/07 at 9:43am |
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How come noone has mentioned our Texas standby? The Ash Juniper or "Goddamn cedar" as they're called here. Never straight , almost no taper , split after a year , use a whole roll of tape , this stringy ass bark that sticks to your tackified hands when u stand it up , fire ants LOVE 'em, big knot holes all over 'em from top to bottom.......hell, I could go on for ages on the features and benefits |
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david barron
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Joined: 9/20/04 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 800 |
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Posted: 10/09/07 at 10:03am |
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You got a lot of wedgies growing up, didn't you. |
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Average joe
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UpChucker
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Joined: 2/24/07 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 130 |
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Posted: 10/09/07 at 2:55pm |
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Schucks...was finally hoping to meet you in person.
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Jerome
I am not yet the fruit of the tree |
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Silverback
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Posted: 10/10/07 at 2:36am |
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You will see me at the NS, Baab and I are teaming up to raise the south again.
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Mule
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M-BAAB
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Posted: 10/10/07 at 4:02am |
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Ohhhhhhhhh there is no land like Dixie...hurrah,hurrah . This may be the oldest N/S game ever.......and it's Miles' fault - he older than me
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Silverback
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Posted: 10/10/07 at 7:20am |
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12 days? I think you loose that much in the time change coming from Texas.
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Mule
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Skullsplitter
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Posted: 10/11/07 at 9:17am |
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Yea, but then I started paying big shot Manhattan lawyers to get restraining orders to stop those guys from applying "Sphincter Floss". |
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"I am the thread, the pupil, and the eye of the needle is my teacher"
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